David Emanuel Andersson

Venice (Venezia) February 3, 2009

I have just returned from Venice, where I spent one day at a conference and two days walking the alleys. My subjective evaluation of the place:

Pros

• Venice is architecturally one of the most attractive cities anywhere. But this is of course common knowledge. However, a Chinese conference participant told me that most Chinese would not consider Venice beautiful: no skyscrapers or shopping malls.
• Venice is much more attractive in January than in August (the timing of my last visit 20 years ago). In some squares and alleys, I was the only one around.
• Its public places are surprisingly clean and trash cans are abundant (Venice is not Naples).
• Everything was aesthetically satisfying: the shops, the restaurants, the facades, and even the coats that people were wearing.
• The quality of the bread, cheese, and pasta is high absolutely everywhere. The coffee is good too, but very strong.
• There are no motor vehicles anywhere. This is the aspect of Venice that I personally like the most: it’s a high-density city which is almost as quiet and tranquil as a mountain retreat.

Cons

• Public transporation is expensive (6.50 euros for a regular “water bus” ticket)
• The food is expensive (20 euros for a regular lunch, and 30-40 euros for a basic dinner)
• Hotels are expensive (at least 80 euros per person)
• January is only a good time to visit if you don’t pay any attention to the weather. Except for the first day (sunny and +7C) it was cloudy, windy, and cold or snowy, windy, and cold.
• Cafes are only attractive if you’re prepared to stand at the bar, which is what the locals do. A coffee is about 2 euros if you stand; 4 euros if you sit down at a table, and even more if you sit down outside, which is of course not an option in January. It is even more expensive around St. Mark’s square: avoid! While I was checking in, the receptionist at my hotel said that she only had one piece of advice: while in Venice, “don’t sit.”
• There is a lack of regular stores in central Venice – everything seems to be geared to well-heeled tourists.

Altogether, Venice is good, but not good value unless you’re rich.